Irish Holiday Part 5 - Cobh

 For our last day in the South, we took the train to visit Cobh (pronounced Cove).  This town, formerly known as Queenstown, was the last port of call of RMS Titanic, before setting out over the Atlantic on her tragic maiden voyage.  As such, there is a lot of Titanic-based tourism here.

It's a very pretty, touristic town.

We found a mural dedicated to Cumann na mBan, an Irish republican women's organisation that was prominent during the struggle for independence.

We found a park commemorating Titanic, including this clear memorial wall.  The words on each side of the wall are the names of passengers who boarded Titanic in what was then called Queenstown.

There is a memorial for Bruce Ismay, who notoriously survived!

Busy cat on the move!

Ultimately, Arthur and I decided that we were not all that interested in what Cobh had to offer.  We didn't feel like joining the throngs of tourists parading through the Titanic Experience, we didn't want to wait for the chance to sit in a café, and we weren't motivated to pay to see the emigration museum.  So we took the train back to Cork, and instead went roving around to bookstores, where we loaded up on books, including Tom Barry's memoir of leading the West Cork IRA Flying Column, Guerilla Days in Ireland, which we finally sourced from Vibes and Scribes bookstore on Lavitt's Quay.

Irish Holiday Part 4 - History Nerd Day in West Cork!

 August 21st was the day that Arthur and I really indulged our inner history nerd.  We rented a car and headed out into the wilds of West Cork.  Driving in Ireland was for me a real white knuckle experience.  This was my first time driving on the left since I left New Zealand twenty years ago, first time driving manual since I got rid of the VW Golf in 2012, and of course the gear shift was on my left so I was particularly unco.  Add on top of that the narrow, often one-lane country roads and it was a very intense experience.  Spoiler alert:  I returned the rental with no dents or scratches and with an intact clutch :)  We had a beautiful day for it, too!

We drove to the Michael Collins Centre in Clonakilty to meet Tim, the historian who runs the centre.    Tim explained that the pylons were only to keep local cows from wandering onto the concrete pad!

Tim made a 90-minute presentation about Irish republican leader Michael Collins, in which he spoke non-stop, with no notes.

One of the artifacts in the centre is what is left of Michael Collins' motorcycle.  In the photo below, the Triumph motorbike in the rear is NOT the Collins bike, but an authentic bike of the same era.  The frame and motor on the table in front is the remains of the actual MC bike!  Apparently it had a significant history after it belonged to Collins.  It was converted into a motor for a farm pump, which is why all that is left of it is the frame and the motor.

While there are many other artifacts in the Michael Collins Centre, the real reason to visit is for Tim's lively and entertaining presentation of the Michael Collins story!

The centre also has a collection of replica vehicles, including a Crossley Tender.

An open staff car, based on the vehicle that Collins himself was travelling in on the day he died.

And a replica of a Rolls Royce armoured car.

After the presentation, Tim took Arthur and me on a tour of some significant sites from the Irish War of Independence and the Irish Civil War that followed immediately after. Our first stop was at the remains of the Collins family homestead.  This was the home where Collins was born and raised, and which was burnt to the ground by British forces.  These foundations are what is left of the family home.

The building in the rear is the original home, which was converted into a barn when the family moved into the new home that the British forces later destroyed.

A better view of the original homestead.

Next stop was Burgatia farmhouse, scene of a battle between Tom Barry's West Cork Flying Column and the Black and Tans of the Royal Irish Constabulary (RIC).  Regrettably, I didn't take any photos.  I did however get a few photos of Rosscarbery, where Barry's brigade attacked the RIC barracks, which was subsequently abandoned by the RIC.

Centenary plaque commemorating the attack on the barracks.

Rosscarbery has a lovely town square.  I regret that we didn't have more time outside the bigger cities; I would have really enjoyed going to relax in small towns across Ireland!

Commemoration of three prominent men with ties to Rosscarbery history:  Tom Barry, Diarmaid Ó Donnabháin Rosa, and Michael Collins himself.

Next stop was just a quick photo op at the Four Alls pub, Michael Collins's watering hole.

Our next stop was the pièce de résistance, the Kilmichael Ambush site!  This is the location of one of the best known IRA ambushes of the Irish War of Independence.  The Auxiliaries came along this road in two Crossley Tenders, and were attacked by Tom Barry's West Cork Flying Column.

Here's Tim the historian, our guide for today!

According to Tim, the vegetation today is much more verdant than it was in 1920.  It was more open on the day of the ambush.

Arthur and me in front of the memorial.

We finished our tour at Béal na Blàth, where Michael Collins was killed on August 22nd, 1922, and the reason why we had our tour on the 21st instead of Arthur's first choice of the 22nd, as Tim was committed to attend the commemoration on the 22nd!

Here is the centennial plaque.

Location of the anti-treaty IRA who ambushed Collins and his party.

Enough of the bloody photos, Dad!

  And with that, and the onsetting rain, we parted ways with Tim and returned to Cork city.

Irish Holiday Part 3 - Cork City

 Our next stop was Ireland's second city, Cork. We started our stay here with a visit to the Elizabeth Fort, a seventeenth-century star fort.  There are some great views of the city from the ramparts.

In later years, the fort served as a barracks for the Royal Irish Constabulary, in particular for the Black and Tans.  These buildings around the parade square date from those days.  

A view from the street outside the fort.  

We found IRA General Tom Barry of the West Cork Flying Brigade outside the Cork City Museum.  Alas, despite the sign, we did not find pancakes :(

There are many lovely foot bridges across the River Lee.  I particularly liked this one.

And a nice view of the Lee.

We then visited the second prison of our trip, the Cork City Gaol. Another Victorian-era gaol, it has many similarities to Kilmainham Gaol in Dublin, although the exterior looks more like a castle.

The interior followed the same sort of layout as Kilmainham.

The former gaol hospital, looking otherworldly.

And the exercise yard.

Arthur wanted to find this statue of Michael Collins, based on a famous photo of when he eluded capture, riding his bike around Cork as if he was an accountant going about his business!

After our visit to the suprisingly interesting Cork Butter Museum, we stumbled across Widderling's Lane, which hosts an open air art gallery!

And to finish up our Cork City visit, a couple more shots of the River Lee!